The Scottish Diamond Factory

When you're buying a piece of diamond jewellery - especially when you're choosing a diamond engagement ring - the shape of the diamond is one of the main deciding factors. The diamond shape you choose is simply a matter of personal taste.

The shape of a diamond is known as cut, but really refers to a diamond's outline when it is viewed from above. A diamond's shape is often determined by the shape of the original rough stone. A skilled diamond cutter will also consider the location of inclusions and the preservation of carat weight in order to maximise a diamond 's beauty.

Round brilliant diamonds

Round brilliant is the most popular of all diamond shapes and is the traditional shape for a diamond engagement ring - a timeless classic. A round brilliant diamond is cut in a round shape at the top to maximise its return of light, while its overall shape resembles a cone. Since it is a symmetrical diamond, it is capable of returning nearly all the light that enters it and is therefore the most brilliant of diamond cuts.

The round brilliant diamond is also the shape that has been the most researched by diamond cutters. It was introduced in the 17th century and had just 17 facets. Over the past 100 years, diamond cutters have used advanced light theories and mathematical calculations to develop a round brilliant diamond with optimum fire and brilliance. Today's conventional round brilliant diamond has 58 facets.

With the increasing knowledge of light performance and diamond cutting techniques, some diamond cutters have developed new modified round brilliant diamonds. The round Leo® Diamond, for example, handcrafted by Leo Schachter, has a unique patented cut with 66 facets perfectly placed to create a visibly brighter diamond.

Fancy diamond shapes

Any diamond shape that isn't round is known as a 'fancy' shape. A diamond tends to be cut in a fancy shape when the rough stone is not an octahedron. Fancy shaped diamonds were developed to maximise a diamond's beauty.

Princess cut diamonds

The princess cut diamond is the most popular fancy-shaped diamond. The top of a princess cut diamond is square with pointed corners, while its overall shape is a pyramid. A relatively new style developed in the 1970s, it has a modified brilliant cut - a variation of the standard brilliant cut which accentuates the diamond's fire. Radiating fire and brilliance, princess cut diamond engagement rings are a contemporary alternative to the classic round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

Emerald cut diamonds

The emerald cut diamond has a step cut - a cut with rectangular facets that are arranged parallel to its girdle. An emerald cut diamond has a rectangular top with cropped corners and is cut to accentuate a diamond's luster. As its name suggests, this style of cutting was originally used for the cutting of emeralds, but was discovered to be perfect for other gemstones, including diamonds. Extremely popular in the Art Deco period, this shape is enjoying a huge revival in diamond jewellery. Emerald cut diamond engagement rings are increasingly fashionable and always elegant.

Oval diamonds

Oval shaped diamonds are a modern take on the traditional round brilliant, with a similar cut and an enchanting brilliance. Oval is a relatively new diamond shape and was developed in the 1960s by Lazare Kaplan, the cousin of mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky who was instrumental in developing round brilliant diamonds. An oval diamond engagement ring is perfect for the woman who adores the fire of the round brilliant diamond, but wants something that is slightly different.

Baguette diamonds

Slender and rectangular, baguette shaped diamonds are the most common form of step cut diamonds and are named after the French word for bread stick. Baguette diamonds have a small, rectangular cut and are very popular in eternity or wedding rings. They are also used as an accent stone to highlight a larger stone in a diamond cluster ring or are combined with similar sized round brilliant cut diamonds to create a dazzling look.

Pear diamonds

Also known as teardrop because of its single point and rounded end, the pear shaped diamond is a brilliant cut diamond that combines the shape of an oval diamond and a marquise diamond. In an engagement ring, wearing the point of the diamond towards or away from the hand is a matter of personal preference. Exuding simple sophistication, pear shaped diamonds are also stunning in pendants and earrings.

Marquise diamonds

The marquise shaped diamond is believed to have been commissioned by King Louis X1V who wanted a stone to match the sultry smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompedour. The resulting stone was a diamond cut in an elongated shape with pointed ends. The marquise diamond has a brilliant cut and is cut to maximise its carat weight, giving a larger looking stone. Marquise diamonds work beautifully as a central stone in a diamond engagement ring, or as an accent stone in diamond jewellery.

Heart diamonds

The heart shaped diamond represents the ultimate symbol of love. A heart shaped diamond is a pear shaped diamond with a cleft cut into its top. It has a complex cut which requires very skilled cutting to ensure optimum brilliance. Heart shaped diamonds are relatively uncommon but create a distinctive, romantic piece of diamond jewellery.

Asscher diamonds

Radiant cut diamonds are distinctive by their cropped corners and have 70 facets. They are usually rectangular in shape but can also be square. Created in the 1970s by World War II veteran Henry Gossbard, radiant cut diamonds combine the elegance of an emerald cut diamond with the brilliance of a round diamond. A radiant cut stones trimmed corners make it a versatile choice for diamond jewellery.

Radiant diamonds

Radiant cut diamonds are distinctive by their cropped corners and have 70 facets. They are usually rectangular in shape but can also be square. Created in the 1970s by World War II veteran Henry Gossbard, radiant cut diamonds combine the elegance of an emerald cut diamond with the brilliance of a round diamond. A radiant cut stones trimmed corners make it a versatile choice for diamond jewellery.

Cushion diamonds

Cushion cut diamonds have been popular for over a century. Also known as pillow cut diamonds, they have rounded corners and larger facets for increased brilliance. Cushion diamonds can be square or rectangular in shape.

Trilliant diamonds

Also known as trillion, the trilliant diamond has a dramatic cut that was developed in the 1970s in Amsterdam and combines a brilliant cut and a step cut. If cut well, a trilliant diamond displays a sharp brilliance. Trilliant diamonds vary between a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners to a more rounded shape. One of the more unusual diamond shapes, the trilliant diamond is rarely used as a central stone in diamond jewellery but creates an exquisite accent stone for a round brilliant diamond solitaire.